We will
be offering a full line of papercrete mixers, block molds, tools,
pumps,
foamers, water proofing chemicals and other support equipment.
We will also be offering
advanced additives that will bring paper, fiber and foam concretes
into an advanced era of technology. Third generation papercrete
technology will enable people to make waterproof papercrete for
the first time with a product called Calseal®.
The centerpiece of our equipment
lineup will be the powerful "Multi-Chopper" (Part of the Multi-Mixer series)
As the name implies this
industrial sized chopper will make quick work of all materials
that end up impacting on
the surfaces of it's hardened razor sharp blades!
Not only does this machine
chop but it also efficiently pumps the slurry around the drum
mixing it into an extremely homogeneous mixture!
DOWNLOAD .avi MOVIE
OF MIXER WORKING
DOWNLOAD .mov MOVIE
OF MIXER WORKING (Quicktime)
One of these two movie
formats should play on your computer
Build your own block molds
out of 2X8 and 2X12 lumber. Coming
soon!!!!
To use your own home made
block molds you must have an area that has at least 6" of
clean washed sand or gravel (the "sand-box") .
This allows the bottom of
the block to pick up the sand-box media thereby texturing the
block face.
When you turn the blocks
over the face is covered in the sand or gravel that you selected
for your sand-box. This gives the block a beautiful looking face!
Combinations of black, gray and white gravel gives block faces
the perfect illusion of being solid granite.
The sand-box method also
provides for vital drainage so even if you plan to Stucco your
block they still need to be cast on top of a well drained sand
or gravel area.
The "R"
factor of papercrete is about 2.5 per inch but foamed papercrete
is as high as 3 per inch.
A "Castle
Block" made of "Foamed Papercrete" or just regular
foamed concrete has an "R" factor of 36!
"Just as an experiment I chopped
up ALL the trash from our weekly kitchen trash bag. It not only
chopped up all the paper but surprisingly it also chopped up
all the non-returnable bottles and cans without missing a beat!
This puts sharp edges into the concrete matrix so you have to
be careful how you use this special blend I called "garbagecrete".
It makes very good quality block but don't use it for casting
bench seats.
I think we have broken almost every rule
in the virtual "papercrete-handbook" adding things
like used paint brushes and roller cartridges, sponges, Styrofoam
popcorn, plastic bottles, tumble weeds (my personal favorite),
sunflower stalks, straw and other fibrous plants, tree leafs,
twigs and other various yard rakings, holiday wrapping paper
including those dreaded clamshell packages! (The people in the landfill business are not going
to like what we are doing here!!!!!!!!!!!!)
SECRET: The huge castle
block shown here contains the entirety of our families refuse
for one week. Mulched and mixed with water and 50 cents worth
of cement added it is now very compact! This block is absolutely
rock hard, is tougher than any cement block, looks beautiful
plus it has an estimated lifespan of over 2000 years due to petrification
of the matrix (many longer, much longer!)
A large block like this could easily cost
$12.50 to buy at a building supply yard but just think, it took
only 8 minutes to make. Is your time worth $90.00 an hour???
For many people living in rural areas, spare time and air are
commodities that by far exceed high paying jobs! In economical
situations like this making your own building materials makes
perfect sense.
In the larger environmental picture just
imagine a world without landfills where beautiful energy efficient
homes are built dirt cheap! Also by casting carbon based organic
materials (paper) into concrete you are taking potential CO2
sources out of the environmental loop permanently! Think of it as casting greenhouse
gases into stone!
Making your own paper
concrete blocks is almost an
addictive venture for
many enthusiastic owner/builders.
Once most owner/builders mix up their
first batch of paper cement they can hardly wait for the next
batch of junk mail or news papers to come in! Any paper product
can easily be mulched into an almost free building material.
You can make blocks, flat panel boards or even use it as a plaster
to cover free formed wire shapes like rocks, waterfalls, columns,
domes or even create an indoor cave style living room (See photo below).
Like many others you may find yourself
looking at your weekly garbage as a source potential income,
savings and joy!
You will never look at waste paper the
same way again! Paper mixed with dirt and cement is treasure!
The bricks you see below cost only pennies
to make and are surprisingly light and strong.
They have great compression strength but
can be cut with a rip saw making them easy to work with.
The hardness and strength of your paper
concrete depends on how much cement and dirt you use in the making
of your blocks. There is no right or wrong formula depending
on what you are trying to build or create.
This is only one of 7 block molds we will
be offering including the big "Castle Block Mold" which
allows you to build your own medieval castle or heavy duty block
walls. The "R" value of the castle blocks is about
36 so they are VERY eco-friendly for saving energy in most types
of structures.
Free-form wire and paper
concrete cave.
As far as building codes hopefully you
live in a fairly progressive city. Even in cities with tough
building codes most engineers will sign off on paper concrete
homes as long as the roof is bolted to self supporting beams
and the block is only used as wall fill. In yet many other cities
you will find grand fathered agricultural laws that exempt farm
buildings from permit fees if they are under 800 square feet
or used for barns, work shops, farm equipment and grain storage
or other agricultural needs.
In most cities walls up to 6 feet high
almost never require building permits!
The Multi-Chopper
works just like your kitchen blender-
(Only Bigger)
Let
's Have Some Fun Making Your
First
Foamed Papercrete At Home!
Most of the papercrete formulas
our company specializes in contain little
to no dirt but instead contain
lots of air plus paper and cement.
Let's make
a batch and see how you like Aerated (foamed) Papercrete!
Start by procuring some paper
from any paper shredding machine! Now using an old discarded
kitchen blender simply add 2 cups of water to it, turn it on
high (use the splash guard blender lid) and begin sprinkling
in bits of paper into the feed hole on the blenders lid until
the pulp is nice and creamy looking. Be sure to add the paper
to the whirling vortex slowly as this usually takes much
less paper than you would think!!!!! Just a little pulped paper
can make water very thick and creamy looking! (For exact formula link here)
Now slowly start sprinkling
in tablespoons full of Portland cement into the blenders vortex
and no sand!!! If you want to make waterproof papercrete you
may also add a teaspoon of type "S" lime too. Be sure
you quit adding the cement and lime powder at just about
the point of thickness that would clog the vortex (This takes
practice and patience!!!!!!!!!!)
Now mix for about 60 seconds.
Next pour the thick and creamy aerated papercrete into some old
plastic food containers and let them sit perfectly still for
72 hours or more!
Handling the container during
this time can create micro-fractures and weaken your end product
dramatically!!!
If you see some water separation
on top you should have added more cement or less water or more
paper but QuickCure® can also take care of this problem
and allows these types of mixtures to become very forgiving.
When properly cured you will
find that papercrete made by this type of high speed mechanical
whipping action is an extremely light weight, tough and shock
proof material! The "R" values are also fantastic too!
HINTS: If the vortex in
the center of the blender stops spinning slowly add water until
it spins again. If you add too much you will have to add more
paper and cement again. (This can be a vicious cycle and you
could end up with a quart of worthless cement colored paper-water
so be careful!!!! If you do it right the first time the blender
should be LESS than half full!
NOTES: The procedure above
turns out MUCH better when a little bit of QuickCure® additive
is used to stabilize the mixture!
Sometimes air filled concretes
collapse during curing if they are not stabilized with products
like QuickCure® or by adding extra cement. Quick cure saves
you money on cement costs so you can add less. QuickCure SAVES
money, that's why we developed it.
(Do not
place your hands or arms into the chopper drum!
Keep children
and all inexperienced people away from this device!)
Fiberfoam tilt-up wall construction.
Pour a conventional concrete slab and
then build forms right on the slab with cutouts for doors and
windows out of 12" x 2" lumber forms.
Most pour frame dimensions are 8' X 8' or 10' X 10' or 12' X 12' all depending
on the wall height of the structure.
Reinforce with lots of wire a rebar
and then PUMP the fiberfoam slurry out of your 55 gallon mixing
drum right into the form using a simple open-vein "Trash-pump"
and 2" clear flex hose. After 5 days it is ready to tilt
up WITH the wood frame still attached (assuming it is truly cured
and was correctly mixed) .
The bottom wood form is made from pressure
treated "Greenboard" as this actually becomes part
of the structure including the lumber frame form. Once the wall
is tilted up the wood forms are screwed to each other or 'toe
nailed' and become part of the entire wall encircling the structure
giving it extra support and strength. Tilt up construction is
cheap BUT definitely requires a trained person to accomplish
especially if earthquake ties are required.
When complete use a waterproof (high
lime content) stucco to finish the building off inside and out.
Great
for grinding and destroying chips and circuit boards too!
crete
OUR BEST FORMULA (Do not add sand!!!)
Add the following into a
steel 55 gallon drum -
20 gallons of water
15 lbs. of cement (plastic or Portland type
is fine)
4 lbs. of type "S" slaked lime
Then while mixing (high speed) slowly add
paper until
the proper thickness is reached. (About 30
to 50 pounds (Wet weight) depending on paper type)
Notes: Try to add the paper wet or presoaked
for best results. If you did it right you should end up with
about 30 to 35 gallons of fiber foam concrete per batch.
This is the toughest papercrete you will
ever make! It is so durable not even
a sledge hammer can break it when cast into large blocks. It
is like hitting a large block of rubber. (must cure of 45 days
first). It can also take the punishment of incredibly powerful
shock waves from TNT and PETN and other explosives without shattering!!!
This formula can make an incredible building material for schools
and public buildings in this age of terrorism! It can also be
stuccoed on top of existing structures forming a bomb proof barrier.
(Must be 4" to 12" thick)
Ballistic cement and concrete test:
We have one test brick made of fiberfoamconcrete
that measures 12" x 12" X 18" in size. It was
shot over 50 times at point blank range with ammunitions ranging
from .223 , .30-06, .308 Nato, 9mm auto, .357 and 44 magnum calibers.
The brick is still in one piece! Not even
one bullet ever got through. The brick swallowed them all up
and held together.
God forbid, but if I was ever in a war or
a fire-fight I want to be behind a 12" thick wall of fiberfoamconcrete!!!
Bullets can chip away at ordinary bricks
and concrete but our air filled fiber foam concrete only gets
stronger and harder as it becomes laden with more and more lead
and steel! Great stuff for saving lives!
Wouldn't you know it? While we were trying
to make the world a cleaner and greener place we ended up making
a tool for the industrial, military complex,,, life is truly
ironic indeed : /
Now building indestructible bunkers is among
the #1 uses for this cheap and unique shock absorbing building
material.
We get more Emails on this subject than for
any other type of use. The human race sure has its priorities
backwards!
Just say 'NO' to WAR!
